Cambodia in one trip from two sides: three full days among the temples of Angkor – from the dawn silhouette of Angkor Wat to Ta Prohm entwined with tree roots, and two days in Phnom Penh, where gold of the Royal Palace sits alongside the heavy memory of the Khmer Rouge regime. This itinerary is for those who want not only photographs but also an understanding of the country.
The logic of the route: three nights in Siem Reap gives time to stretch Angkor out over several days instead of a marathon in one – sunrise at the main temple separately, the “grand circuit” with Bayon and Ta Prohm separately, distant temples and sunset separately. Floating village on Tonle Sap on the way to the airport – a transition from ancient history to the modernity of the lake, living off fishing. Phnom Penh – a short but intense finale with a direct conversation about the country’s XX century.
Route map
Click a day or a point of interestDay-by-day route
Siem Reap International Airport
The new international airport is further from the city than the old one (around 40 minutes to the center) — it’s worth checking transfer costs with your hotel in advance, as taxis at the arrivals hall are usually more expensive than pre-booked options.
Pub Street at Night
The main tourist street in town – neon signs, live music, bar stools right on the road that's closed to traffic in the evening. Not the most authentic place in Cambodia, but a must for getting acquainted with Siem Reap’s vibe.
Night Market
Located near Pub Street — dense rows of souvenirs, textiles and street food. Bargaining is appropriate almost everywhere; starting prices are usually 1.5–2 times higher than the final price.
1 / 2 Sunrise at Angkor Wat
The park gates open around 5 AM – specifically for those who want to catch the classic silhouette of the five towers reflected in the western pond at sunrise. The best spots by the water are taken by 5:15–5:20, so it’s worth arriving right at opening.
Bayon in Angkor Thom
216 stone faces looking in all directions from the temple towers – one of the most recognizable and mysterious monuments of Cambodia. There's still no consensus on whose face is depicted (according to one version, it’s that of King-builder Jayavarman VII).
Ta Prohm: A Temple Embraced by Jungle
This is the only major Angkor temple that was deliberately left partially entwined with the roots of fig trees – these shots are what made the temple recognizable worldwide after the filming of “Lara Croft.” You need to walk carefully: some paths run directly between the roots on uneven stones.
1 / 3 Banteay Srei: The Intricately Carved Pink Temple
About an hour from central Siem Reap – small in scale but the most intricately carved temple of the complex: pink sandstone allowed artisans to carve ornamentation with almost jewelry-like precision. It’s often called the “women's temple” for its delicate carvings, although the name translates differently.
Pre Rup Temple-Pyramid
A stepped temple mountain made of sandstone and laterite – climbing the steep steps to the top offers a panorama of the surrounding jungle. The name itself means "turning of the body" – according to legend, burial rituals were performed here.
Sunset from Phnom Bakheng Hill
One of the oldest temples in the region, standing on a natural hill – a hugely popular spot for sunset views over the jungle and, in the distance, the silhouette of Angkor Wat. During peak season, a limited number of visitors are allowed up the hill at one time – plan to ascend well in advance, about an hour before sunset.
1 / 3 A Floating Village on Tonle Sap Lake
The largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, where entire villages live on the water – houses, schools, temples and shops all built on floating platforms. It’s worth choosing an operator based on reviews of their ethical approach to tours, rather than just the beauty of the photos—some tours take groups through staged “poor” villages for tips.
Internal Flight to Phnom Penh
Around 45 minutes flying time – noticeably faster and more convenient than a bus (5–6 hours on the road). From Phnom Penh airport to the center — 20–30 minutes by taxi.
First Evening in the Capital
After busy days in Siem Reap—a relaxing evening along the Tonle Sap and Mekong riverfront in Phnom Penh, where restaurants with views of the confluence of the two rivers are concentrated.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
A functioning residence of the King of Cambodia with a visitor-accessible section – the throne hall and the Silver Pagoda, featuring a floor laid with over 5,000 silver tiles (most are covered by carpets for preservation). The dress code is strict, as in a temple.
Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21)
A former school transformed by the Khmer Rouge regime into a prison and interrogation center – cells, instruments, walls with thousands of photographs of victims have been preserved. Entry is $5 for adults; an audio guide in English and several other languages costs $3. Allow at least 1.5–2 hours and be prepared for a heavy emotional visit.
Evening After a Difficult Day
After Tuol Sleng, it's sensible to leave the evening free – a stroll along the riverfront or a quiet dinner, without a packed schedule. A sharp transition from 20th-century history to entertainment rarely feels appropriate in one day.
1 / 3 Last Morning in the Capital
Phnom Penh Airport is about 20–30 minutes from the center; morning traffic is usually predictable. There's time for a final breakfast by the river before your transfer.
Route Summary
6 days, 2 overnight stays — from sunrise over Angkor Wat to an honest conversation about the country’s modern history in Phnom Penh. Practical lessons learned from this trip are in the postscript below.
Off the Beaten Path Notes
A 3-day Angkor Pass doesn't have to be used consecutively. We didn’t know in advance that the pass for 3 days is valid for any 3 days out of 10 – and we needlessly planned all three days of Angkor back-to-back. If we had known, we would have inserted a day of relaxing by the pool between the “grand circuit” and the more distant temples—the heat and intensity of impressions accumulate faster than it seems on paper.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat — Arrive Near Opening Time
The park gates open around 5 am specifically for those watching the sunrise over the western pond in front of the temple—but by 5:15, the best spots are already packed with tripods. We arrived at 5:00 and secured a spot right by the water; those who arrived after 5:20 were already shooting over other tourists’ heads.
Tuol Sleng — A Difficult but Important Place
A former school transformed into a prison and torture center under the Khmer Rouge regime—it is now a museum with preserved cells and photographs of victims. This isn't a place for a quick "tick it off" visit; allow at least 1.5–2 hours, and be prepared emotionally, especially if traveling with teenagers—discuss beforehand what the museum will cover.
Floating Village — Choose Your Operator Carefully
Some tours to Tonle Sap are organized so that they visit staged "poor" villages for tips—read reviews specifically about the operator's ethics, not just the beauty of the view. We chose a tour based on hotel recommendations for this very criterion.
Budget in Reality
For two people, excluding international flights: accommodation — approximately 26,000 ₽ for the entire route, transport (tuk-tuks, car with driver, domestic flight Siem Reap–Phnom Penh) — 14,000 ₽, food — 13,000 ₽, Angkor Pass and Phnom Penh museum tickets — 21,000 ₽. Totaling around 74,000 ₽—the Angkor passes turned out to be more expensive than the initial estimate, but that was expected with a 3-day pass for two.
What’s Next
If after temples you crave the sea — route combining Angkor and Koh Rong islands. An overview of Cambodia, visas, and budget is available on the country page.
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