Phnom Kulen in Cambodia: a sacred mountain 45 km from Siem Reap, two waterfalls, a reclining Buddha and the River of a Thousand Lingas. Entry price 20 dollars, entry hours from 7:00 to 11:30 and how to plan a day.
The road up Phnom Kulen is one-way, and this is no joke: until half past eleven in the morning you can only drive up it, and then it is “turned around” for the descent, so the whole day is built around an early start. But at the top, an hour’s drive from the crowds of Angkor Wat, a completely different Cambodia begins: a cool forest, waterfalls where families from Siem Reap bathe, a reclining Buddha in the monastery at the summit and a river on whose bed thousands of stone symbols of Shiva are carved. Phnom Kulen is the Khmers’ sacred mountain, and according to tradition it was from here that the history of the Khmer Empire began.
The mountain where an empire began
Phnom Kulen — the “mountain of lychees” — rises above the plain north-east of Angkor and has been considered sacred since antiquity. According to Khmer tradition, it was on this plateau at the beginning of the 9th century that the first king of a united state was proclaimed, and later the river from the mountain supplied water to all of Angkor’s rice fields. That is why for Cambodians a trip here is not only a picnic by a waterfall but also a pilgrimage: at weekends and on holidays hundreds of families in their best clothes climb to the summit.
The waterfalls
There are two main waterfalls on the mountain. The first is small: about 4–5 metres high and 20–25 metres wide, with a shallow pool beneath where children splash. The second, larger, 15–20 metres high and 10–15 metres wide, falls into a wide pool in which you can swim; it is here that people come for bathing and picnics. In the dry season there is noticeably less water, but in the rainy season the waterfall thunders at full force and the paths around become slippery.
The River of a Thousand Lingas
The most unusual point of the route is Kbal Spean, the “River of a Thousand Lingas”, located on Kulen’s south-western slopes about 25 kilometres from the main group of Angkor’s temples. On the sandstone bed and banks of the river bas-reliefs of Hindu gods and more than a thousand lingas — symbols of Shiva — are carved. Some of the carving lies just five centimetres beneath the water’s surface. It is believed that the lingas were meant to purify the water and make it fertile so that it would irrigate the rice fields downstream. A forest trail with a climb leads to the river, so take comfortable shoes and water.
The reclining Buddha
At the top of the mountain, in a working monastery, lies a huge statue of the Buddha on a rock platform. People come here to pray and make offerings, and the view from the terrace over the plain gives a sense of how high you have climbed. As at any temple, clothing must cover shoulders and knees, and shoes are removed before entering.
Tickets and how to get there
Entry to the national park costs 20 dollars per person, and children under 12 enter free — they need to show a passport at the checkpoint to confirm their age. The distance from Siem Reap is about 45 kilometres. Entry up the mountain is open only from 7:00 to 11:30, while one-way traffic uphill is in force, so leave the city in advance and don’t plan the trip “for after lunch”. The simplest is to take a driver for the day or join a group tour with transfer.
When to go
The most beautiful time is the rainy season and the start of the dry season, July to November: the waterfalls are full and the forest green. In the hottest months, March to May, there is less water, but no rain. At weekends and on Cambodian holidays it is crowded at the top, so for quiet it is better to choose weekdays.
Practical tips
Take a swimsuit, a towel, a change of clothes and a waterproof phone case. Shoes should have a non-slip sole: the rocks by the water are wet. Cash (dollars and small riels) will be useful for food, tips and small fees on the spot. Don’t leave rubbish — the mountain is sacred, and locals take this seriously. And allow about six to eight hours in all with the road: Kulen is not “pop in for an hour”.
FAQ
How much is entry to Phnom Kulen? 20 dollars per person; children under 12 free on presentation of a passport.
What time do I need to go? Entry is open from 7:00 to 11:30 — at this time one-way traffic uphill is in force.
What is there to see besides the waterfalls? The reclining Buddha at the summit and Kbal Spean — the “River of a Thousand Lingas” on the mountain’s slope.
Can I swim? Yes, the second, larger waterfall has a wide pool popular for swimming and picnics.
How long is the drive from Siem Reap? The distance is about 45 km; with the road and stops the whole route needs 6–8 hours.
Prices, entry hours and visiting rules may change — check current information before the trip.
